PRITCHARD LIFE

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San Francisco Recommendations from the Pritchards – Food and Fun Times

We’ve talked about writing our own guide to San Francisco food and activities since back in our SierraSoul days. We love this city, we love to share it with people, and we’re not short on opinions. This isn’t a comprehensive guide to the San Francisco experience. There are some corners of this city that we barely know and this has a bit of a western-neighborhood bias. We just want to share our point of view, from a couple with deep San Francisco roots, who have lived and worked here for nearly 25 years. So, here we go…

[just take me to the food recommendations]

What Do We Call This Place?

Let’s get this out of the way up front. We can be a little touchy about what people call our beloved city:

  • San Francisco – preferred
  • The City – absolutely
  • SF – sure, we’ll allow it
  • San Fran – nope
  • Frisco – extra nope

If you hear someone talking about the Bay Area, they’re referring to the nine-county region that surrounds the San Francisco Bay. The North Bay, East Bay, South Bay, Peninsula, Silicon Valley, and Wine Country are all regions of the Bay Area.

Where to Stay

Honestly, we’re probably not the best to give advice on specific hotels since this is our hometown and we’re not often shopping for hotel rooms. There are hotels scattered all around San Francisco, but most are concentrated around a few areas: The Marina, Fisherman’s Wharf, Nob Hill, and Downtown (including the Financial District, Jackson Square, SOMA, and Union Square). The higher-end hotels are downtown and atop Nob Hill. Less expensive options are in The Marina and Fisherman’s Wharf.

Once you know your budget, consider what sights/activities are on your list and how you’re planning to get around. If you’re here for a conference at the Moscone Center, stay South of Market. Nob Hill has beautiful, historic hotels, but walking anywhere involves some hills. Union Square is going through an awkward phase right now, and probably wouldn’t be my first recommendation.

If you’re looking for something on the luxury end of the spectrum, check out Michelin’s list of SF hotels. We’ve stayed at the The Battery (on the Michelin list) and it is beautiful. 1 Hotel recently opened a property in SF, and while we’ve never stayed there, we’ve always enjoyed our stays at their properties in NYC. Airbnb is a great option as well. Just be mindful of the location and your transportation options nearby. See more about neighborhood recommendations below.

Getting Around

San Francisco is famously small – only 7 x 7 miles. But it’s a dense city with a lot of people and can take some time to get around. If you’re planning to stay in the city itself, you really don’t need a car. It may be convenient, but definitely isn’t necessary, and in some cases can be a bit of a hassle. Uber and Lyft are available everywhere and really convenient, but the cost can add up. And if you’re curious, you can get a Waymo driverless car, which is exactly like Uber/Lyft, less the human.

That said, if you’re planning any activities that venture outside of San Francisco (wine tasting in Napa, hiking in Marin, beaches on the San Mateo coast), you’ll need a car. Check out Turo for convenient neighborhood pick up.

Public transit in the city itself is operated by SF Muni, with buses and light rail (including cable cars, more below). You can get literally anywhere in San Francisco with this system, but depending on the bus/train line, it’s often the slower option. The fare is cheap and you can buy 1-, 3-, and 7-day passes through the Clipper or Muni Mobile app. You can also pay cash, but you need exact change. Buses and trains can be crowded, but don’t be intimidated. Just squeeze in. Everyone pretty much minds their own business and is just trying to get wherever they’re going.

San Francisco is a great city for walking and biking, and I think it’s the best way to explore the city. The hills can be challenging for some, but there is usually a flat-ish way to go. Google Maps has great bike directions that prioritizes routes with bike lanes and fewer hills. E-scooter rentals are also good option – just stay off the sidewalks, please.

Google Maps is the most useful app for general route finding, whether by car, public transit, foot, or bike. Citymapper is also solid for transit directions and wait times. And if you’re driving, Waze often has the best up-to-date traffic routing.

The Neighborhoods

San Francisco has an absurd number of neighborhoods and micro-neighborhoods. We’re super passionate about these little corners of the city and they each have different vibes. We live in the Outer Richmond neighborhood, which is a pretty quiet (some would say dull) neighborhood tucked between The Presidio to the north, Golden Gate Park to the south, and Ocean Beach to the west.

In my opinion, if you want to experience San Francisco, get away from the tourist traps and spend some time in and around the neighborhoods. This is where life in SF happens, and each place has it’s own vibe. Here are some of our favorites for eating, shopping, and exploring:

  • North Beach
  • Jackson Square
  • Mission Bay and Dogpatch
  • Richmond District
  • Hayes Valley
  • The Mission
  • The Presidio

Activities and Sightseeing

San Francisco is home to some classic tourist spots, places with some historical (or nostalgic) significance and mixed results overcoming the weight of crowds and shitty tchotchke shops. Here is our quick verdict on the the classic destinations in SF and whether they’re worth your time.

  • Golden Gate Bridge – yes, walk to the midway point and back, bring a jacket
  • Alcatraz – yes, be sure to reserve tickets well in advance
  • Fisherman’s Wharf – it’s complicated, see more below
  • Ghirardelli Square – yes, check out Aquatic Park and get an ice cream sundae
  • Palace of Fine Arts – good spot for a picnic, but don’t go out of your way
  • Lombard Street – meh, it’s just a crooked street, but it’s in a cool neighborhood
  • Cable Cars – this is fun, pick up the California line at Van Ness for a shorter wait
  • Chinatown – yes, but for the best Chinese food, hit the Richmond District
  • Coit Tower – yes, great views and no parking, take the Filbert or Greenwich steps
  • The Ferry Building – yes, bring an appetite
  • Union Square – not right now, check out shopping recommendations above
  • The Painted Ladies – meh, but Alamo Square (across the street) is great for a picnic

So maybe pick a couple of the classics above, then go off the beaten path and explore some of the more interesting parts of this city.

The Presidio is a wild and wonderful place with lots of history, great views, and totally reasonable parking options:

  • Presidio Tunnel Tops and Battery Bluff Park – two new parks with great views
  • Parade Grounds at the Main Post – epic lawn, great picnic spot, food trucks
  • Andy Goldsworthy Sculptures – Tree Fall, Wood Line, Spire, more
  • Batteries to Bluffs Trail
  • Crissy Field – low key beaches, wide walking path, great GG Bridge views

Golden Gate Park is a huge and delightfully weird urban park with lots to explore. Grab picnic supplies at Arguello Market and find a bench or throw down a blanket at Hellman Hollow, Lindley Meadow, Pioneer East Meadow, or the Music Concourse. Then explore the park’s bounty:

  • Conservatory of Flowers
  • Botanical Gardens and Japanese Gardens
  • Roller Skating at 6th Ave
  • Blue Heron Lake & Strawberry Hill
  • Bison Paddock
  • Anglers’ Lodge and Middle Lake
  • Dutch Windmill and Tulip Garden

Lands End is perched on the coastal bluffs at the northwest corner of San Francisco (in the Richmond District). This part of the city used to be nothing but sand dunes and road houses. Like so many places in SF, it has a weird and wonderful history. One of our favorite weekend traditions is a “Lands End Breakfast” where we grab some pastries at a bakery, drive to this parking lot and watch for whales.

  • Lands End Lookout – visitor center, gift shop, coffee shop
  • Sutro Baths Ruins – decayed remains of a former pool house and seaside amusement area
  • Coastal Trail – take the side quest to Mile Rock Beach and the Labyrinth
  • Sutro Heights Park – pretty good spot for a picnic with fewer crowds
  • The Cliff House – re-opening in 2025

Mission Bay and Dogpatch have completely transformed over the past 20 years from an industrial area to a fun and sunny(!) neighborhood with great restaurants, new parks, beautiful bay views, and easy access from downtown on the T Third Street line.

  • Mission Creek and China Basin Parks (Jody’s team did the lighting at the latter)
  • Spark Social & Stagecoach Greens – food trucks and mini golf
  • Crane Cove Park
  • Oracle Park – home of the SF Giants
  • Chase Center – home of the Golden State Warriors and (soon) Valkyries

We got some hella good art museums in beautiful buildings and settings:

  • SFMOMA – massive modern art collection across a wide range of media
  • de Young – eclectic collection in a Herzog & de Meuron masterpiece
  • Legion of Honor – classic vibes (and collection), great site
  • Asian Art Museum – one of the most comprehensive Asian art collections in the world

Or nerd out in our science museums:

  • California Academy of Sciences – aquarium, planetarium, natural history
  • Exploratorium – really fun hands-on learning for adults and kids, on the waterfront
  • Cable Car Museum – you’ll walk away thinking, “holy shit, I can’t believe that works”

Visitors sometimes forget that San Francisco is a beach town with something just right for every vibe. Don’t forget a hoodie, and a blanket, and maybe a puffer, just in case. With a car, you can also check out some of the great beaches in San Mateo or Marin counties:

  • Baker Beach – easily the most popular SF beach on a sunny day
  • Marshall Beach – short hike down that is totally worth the GG Bridge views
  • Ocean Beach – the O.G. – what it lacks in charm, it makes up for in scale
  • Crissy Field East Beach – low-key beach on the bay, good for wading with kids
  • Crane Cove Park – industrial setting on the bay side of SF, SUP rentals available
  • Grey Whale Cove – stunning location, just south of Devil’s Slide on Highway 1
  • Rodeo Beach – just north of the Golden Gate, nestled into the Marin Headlands

Get outside and have a little adventure with some great hiking options in the city and even more within a short drive:

There is no shortage of ways to spend money in San Francisco. If you’re looking to shop, maybe skip Union Square, which got crushed during the pandemic (and subsequent exodus from downtown) and is in the process of rebuilding. Instead, check out some of the neighborhood shopping districts:

  • Clement – Arguello to 8th Ave
  • Hayes Valley – Gough to Laguna
  • Fillmore – Bush to Jackson
  • Chestnut Street – Divisadero to Fillmore
  • Valencia – 14th St to 22nd St

If you’re into independent bookstores and record shops, here are some of our favorites:

  • Green Apple Books – my all-time favorite bookstore
  • Booksmith – small but well-curated shop in the Haight
  • City Lights – legendary bookstore with great poetry section
  • Omnivore Books – all cookbooks, all the time
  • Kinokuniya – Japantown fixture with great selection of design books
  • William Stout – architectural books
  • Amoeba Music – legendary record shop in the Haight

And some miscellaneous activities that don’t really fit neatly into one of the groupings above:

  • Twin Peaks – best view in the city
  • Giants Game – grab a cheap(er) seat in the bleachers, get some garlic fries
  • Stairway Walks – get the latest version of this book and explore the city by foot

So…what about Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39? The northern waterfront in SF is beautiful and has a rich history. A lot of people have nostalgia for trips to Pier 39 as a kid. But this area suffers from the gradual build-up of tourist bullshit that plagues places like Times Square, Hollywood Blvd, Bourbon Street, Navy Pier and other tourist traps. It’s a lot of overpriced, mediocre food, hokey souvenir shops, and silly amusements that have nothing to do with San Francisco. Most self-respecting locals disavow this area altogether. I have a slightly different take. I worked in this neighborhood for over eight years and eventually found some places that shine through the all the crap.

If you or your travel partners definitely want to check this area out, focus your time on the two end points: Aquatic Park/Ghirardelli Square and the Ferry Building. For the most part, everything in between is not worth your time. I reluctantly offer these suggestions if you find yourself visiting the Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39 area:

  • Aquatic Park – check out the Maritime Museum and walk the pier
  • Ghirardelli Square – do some shopping and get an ice cream sundae
  • Hyde Street Pier – very cool collection of historic ships
  • Musée Mécanique – delightfully weird collection of vintage amusements and games
  • Sea Lions at Pier 39 – legitimately cool and totally free
  • Fog Harbor Fish House – solid seafood restaurant at Pier 39
  • Crepe Cafe – very good savory and sweet crepes at Pier 39
  • Freddie’s Sandwiches – a couple blocks out of the way and totally worth it
  • Pier 23 Restaurant – great outdoor bar/cafe on the water
  • Ferry Building – food emporium and great Farmer’s Market every Tue/Thu/Sat

Restaurants and Bars

Whenever someone asks me for restaurant recommendations, I respond with more questions. This city has an overwhelming range of options, from 3 Michelin star restaurants to food trucks and everything in between. I usually ask people if they’re looking for a specific type of cuisine, location, or vibe. I honestly don’t know the trendiest places at any moment in time, but if that’s what you’re looking for, check out the various lists on Eater – starting with the Eater 38. They do a really nice job recommending places across a range of price points and cuisines. So, what follows is a selection of our favorite spots (with a few recommendations from friends, as well):

Mission-Style Burritos

  • La Taqueria – the best burrito in America
  • Taqueria Cancun
  • El Castillito
  • Gordo – the western neighborhoods have good burritos too
  • BTW…if you come to San Francisco and eat at Chipotle, please lose my number

Mexican

  • Nopalito – everything here is good
  • Tacos El Patron – have the quesabirria tacos
  • El Cielito Lindo – west side quesabirria goodness
  • El Pipila – try the pozole

Pizza

  • Tony’s Pizza Napoletana – North Beach classic with a crazy variety of styles
  • Slice House – several locations for classic NY-style slices
  • The Laundromat – Detroit-style pizza in the Outer Richmond
  • Little Star – order the deep dish, Jody’s favorite pizza of all time
  • Gioia – great pies in Hayes Valley

Italian

  • Fiorella – neighborhood spot with great pizzas, pastas, and secondi
  • Che Fico – beautiful space, incredible food
  • Delfina – Cal-Italian classic in the Mission
  • Cotogna – wood-fired goodness and tasty pasta

Vietnamese

  • PPQ Dungeness Island – have the garlic noodles
  • Le Soleil – low-key neighborhood spot

Chinese

  • Mamahuhu – modern spin on classic Chinese-American fare
  • Dumpling Home – eat all of the dumplings

Bakeries

  • b. patisserie – get a Kouign Amann
  • Arsicault – the best croissant you’ll ever have, multiple locations
  • Tartine – the best sourdough bread you’ll ever have
  • Arizmendi – our kids’ favorite and proudly responsible for this
  • Craftsman and Wolves – try The Rebel Within
  • Breadbelly – refined and interesting, with Asian influences
  • Jane – several locations, great for lunch
  • Rize Up – great sourdough, available at several Farmer’s Markets

Other High-End Places

  • Aziza – modern Moroccan food in the Richmond District
  • Kokkari – modern Greek food, near downtown
  • Zuni – THE modern classic SF restaurant
  • L’Ardoise – romantic setting, classic French bistro fare
  • State Bird Provisions – creative California menu served dim-sum style
  • Niku Steakhouse – on the recommendation of good friends
  • Spruce – elevated date night spot in a beautiful neighborhood
  • La Mar – Peruvian cuisine and ceviche on the Embarcadero
  • Hillstone – good spot for business lunch on the Embarcadero

Other Casual Places

  • Zazie – excellent brunch in Cole Valley neighborhood
  • Radhaus – tasty German food and beer on the water at Fort Mason
  • Molinari Delicatessen – a North Beach classic Italian deli
  • Burma Superstar – famous Richmond District outpost
  • 4505 – great BBQ and burgers
  • Gott’s Roadside – tasty burgers at the Ferry Building and Chase Center
  • Volcano – Japanese curry (tonkatsu-style) in the Outer Richmond
  • Beit Rima – Arabic comfort food in Cole Valley

Cocktails & Beer

  • The Alembic – small space with pitch-perfect cocktails
  • The Interval – cocktail bar for nerds, also HQ for the Long Now Foundation
  • Aziza – excellent cocktails, with a great bar menu from the restaurant
  • Smuggler’s Cove – excellent tiki bar near Civic Center
  • Holy Water – great cocktail (and beer) bar in Bernal Heights
  • Vesuvio Cafe – iconic North Beach bar, come for the vibes
  • Toronado – O.G. beer bar in the Lower Haight
  • Cellarmaker – delicious craft brew, also in Oakland and Berkeley
  • Barebottle Brewing – more delicious craft beer, in Bernal Heights

Well, that was just a massive brain dump of ideas and places. And you may be no better off now than when you started. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Something I’ll do eventually is write up a couple of sample itineraries for 1-day and 3-day trips to SF – some very specific “This is what you should do if you have x days in SF.” For now, just let me know if you have any questions or check out r/AskSF. Take care.